J Invest Dermatol 1996;107:714-9.) Thus, retinol derivatives like retinyl acetate and palmitate are widely used in cosmetic products instead of retinol. I generally start my patients on the lowest possible concentration of tretinoin – 0.012% or 0.025% - and start by using it three times a week only for the first 4 weeks. This leads onto a separate yet very important question: Is the level of irritation you get from a topical retinoid a reflection of its ‘strength’? tretinoin)…So retinol works very similarly to prescription retinoids – the results just take longer to see – but nonetheless the fact remains 1% retinol has been established as providing the same end results as prescription retinoids.’. A fair word of warning: It might not knock out breakouts entirely for you at first. May be mixed with any Drunk Elephant cream or oil. The compounding vehicle is thus designed to allow penetration of the drug it is mixed with. Check out @carolinehirons for a detailed, unbiased overview of this DE product. The best results for most retinol regimens are seen after six weeks of use. It was red, dry, irritated, and peeling, even in the middle of the sticky New York summer. "When I launched Drunk Elephant, I didn't understand retinol," Tiffany Masterson, founder of Drunk Elephant, exclusively tells Allure. More worrying perhaps is the fact that the manufacturer of this cosmetic product is saying that the cosmetic ingredient (retinol) is equivalent to a medicine; By definition a cosmetic product cannot be equivalent to a medicine. And it made my complexion glowier than ever. I swore to myself I would never reach for a heavy-duty retinol again—until Drunk Elephant’s A-Passioni 1% Retinol showed up on my desk. I used it for a while and it went to trash as it caused me clogged pores and acne (along with strong exfoliation). Danielle never experienced irritation or peeling with the Dermatica tretinoin product. Also has three peptides for skin firming, although these are far less proven than the retinol. The material on this site may not be reproduced, distributed, transmitted, cached or otherwise used, except with the prior written permission of Condé Nast. Framboos Glycolic Night Serum) or anything with acne-fighting … The vehicle used to deliver the tretinoin in the compounded prescription Dermatica product has the following ingredients: Purified water, humectants, O/W emulsifier, lubricants, silicone, rheology enhancer, preservative, vitamin E. Silicone is one of the key ingredients in this particular vehicle for tretinoin and it does not cause any problems with efficacy or tolerability. Given that, it’s no surprise that Reddit threads and beauty bloggers freaked out about the brand’s foray into retinol, which took home a Glamour Beauty Award this year. Drunk Elephant Daytime and Nighttime Skincare Routines written by Parita 5 Comments I’ve been raving about Drunk Elephant (DE) for a while now and finally managed to get a post together with my thoughts on the products I own. Dermatology 1999;199*suppl 1):13-7. If irritation occurs, I advise patients to stop using it until their skin is back to normal and then start again. ‘Potency’ or ‘efficacy’ are probably more appropriate words to use in this context. “Retinol has a very diverse set of biological effects, the main … Ad Choices, This Drunk Elephant Retinol Cream Doesn’t Irritate My Sensitive Skin. Arch Dermatol 1995: 131; 1037-44). Tiffany Masterson, founder of Drunk Elephant, said that when she first launched the brand, she had no intention of including a retinol product because she found it a little scary and there was a lot of misinformation and misconceptions around the product. Contains a high one percent concentration of retinol, the gold standard ingredient for anti-aging. However, we still do not understand the precise mechanism by which topical retinoids work to improve skin wrinkling with photoaging. (Spoiler: It didn’t.) I also suggest applying a bland emollient before the tretinoin at bedtime in order to further minimise irritation at the beginning of treatment. That being said, it is widely acknowledged that, especially in relation to the treatment of acne, increasing the concentration of the retinoid increase efficacy but may reduce tolerability. Glamour may earn a portion of sales from products that are purchased through our site as part of our Affiliate Partnerships with retailers. I consulted Zeichner, and he said it’s normal for some people to get new breakouts after starting a retinol routine because the ingredient causes your skin to purge itself of any blockage in your pores. The known benefits of topical retinoids are numerous and include renewing of epidermal cells, acting as UV filters, preventing oxidative stress, controlling cutaneous bacterial flora and improving the signs of skin aging and photo aging. I can provide a review article of the use of silicone in skincare with 76 referenced research articles investigating the successful and efficient use of silicones in topical drug delivery systems. The brand’s Vitamin C Serum and D-Bronzi Serum are everything, and people swear by the line’s efficacious yet gentle formulas. See 18 member reviews and photos. While the retinol didn’t work to fight off my cysts, it did wonders on fading the pigmentation old breakouts had left behind. Drunk Elephant D-Bronzi Anti-Pollution Sunshine Drops – This bronzer has the added benefit of protecting the skin from damaging free radicals. Retinol is actually just vitamin A. Limit initial use to once or twice a week, gradually increasing frequency to every other night, and then every night as tolerated. This morning I received a DM from @daniellelouisehay regarding a retinol product she had used from Drunk Elephant that she had quite a strong reaction to. Even still, it took the ingredients label to convince me the Drunk Elephant retinol would be gentle enough on my skin. Hello everyone, I was wondering if anyone is also experiencing horrible purging / breakouts after start using Drunk Elephant products? But that’s offset with additives like nourishing kale and winter cherry, skin-strengthening peptides, and marula and jojoba oils to help prevent any peeling that comes from retinol. Though none of these are silicone-based, chlorhexidine is one of the ingredients and this is known to be a strong irritant to skin. Indeed, silicones have been used for over 60 years to enhance the drug delivery and efficacy of topical and transdermal products. I just ordered the full sizes, and they are definitely worth every penny. It was found to have potent anti-aging effects when a number of women who had used it for facial acne reported an improvement in fine periorbital wrinkling. Drunk Elephant Retinol Cream – A-Passioni. Drunk Elephant A-Passioni Retinol Cream “My skincare products shift depending on what season we are in, but washing and moisturizing your face and neck is key all year round! My once huge pores are almost invisible now, and my fine lines are history. © 2020 Condé Nast. @drunkelephant @rivas_nathan @dermatica.skin, ‘The retinol in [the product] is 100% bioavailable to skin because we don’t use any ingredients that would slow or prevent absorption (like siliciones or waxes). 2015;14(1):24-30.). See all 248 winners of the Glamour Beauty Awards here. This is like the skin-care equivalent of a big … Over the past month, I used this every night with Drunk Elephant Retinol Cream and Drunk Elephant Lala Retro Whipped Moisturizer with Ceramide. She queried this directly with the manufacturer and received a response. Since the early 1980s, up to 92% of subjects using tretinoin in various studies report what has been coined ‘retinoid dermatitis’ – the development of red, itchy, flaky skin at the site of application. Drunk Elephant A-Passioni Retinol 5 Month Skin Update! Switch to Retriderm or some other retinol product that is … We’re thrilled she’s come around to this research-backed ingredient and has succeeded in formulating a top-notch retinol … Drunk Elephant A-Passioni™ Retinol Cream: rated 4 out of 5 on MakeupAlley. I go into detailed discussion of all three of these topics, including the exact statements made by the manufacturer in their response to Danielle, in my blog – click on the link in my bio. In the cell, retinoic acid regulates and alters gene expression via binding to Retinoic Acid Response Elements (RARE) which are critical DNA sequences in the promoter regions of select genes. Simply stated, the less steps required to get to the active form the more effective the topical treatment will be. Topical tretinoin was first licensed and used to treat actinic keratoses (sun damage) and acne in 1971. When using this in addition to Drunk Elephant B Hydra Intensive Hydration Gel and Drunk Elephant C-Firma Day Serum, the overall tone and texture of my skin drastically improved. What skin is it best suited to? ! I’ve still gotten a few spots on my cheeks and chin. The first human study of tretinoin on facial wrinkling did not happen until 1983 and every study since has shown similar results – once daily use of tretinoin cream produces significant improvement in fine facial wrinkling associated with chronic sun exposure and biopsy studies confirm an increase in collagen and other positive changes in the dermis. (ICYMI, the company finally launched a retinol cream this month.) I credit that 100% to a round of Accutane I embarked on last year. It is important to apply the tretinoin to thoroughly dry skin to minimise the irritation. Dermalogica Overnight Retinol Repair is a 0.5 percent retinol treatment that … A skin either already adjusted to strong retinols or a skin on the face of an owner willing to massively buffer it. There are hundreds of clinical trials investigating the anti-aging effects of topical retinoic acid (tretinoin); it is considered one of the most effective and well-substantiated compounds for treating the signs and symptoms of photodamage and aging skin. According to Danielle, irritation from this cosmetic product is quite common. What type of vitamin A and % is it? I give up. Drunk Elephant F-Balm Electrolyte Waterfacial Mask. A-Passioni Retinol Cream is a clean, cutting-edge formula that combines 1.0% vegan retinol with nourishing, superfood-rich ingredients to dramatically diminish the appearance of fine lines, deep wrinkles and sun damage revealing a vibrant, younger-looking complexion." My skin (and wallet) seem to like the The Ordinary Squalane Cleanser and the Thayers Lavender Facial Toner . In hopes of lightening the damage, I reached for my trusty retinol. Unsurprisingly, the winner was Drunk Elephant’s A-Passioni Retinol Cream ($74), a 1% retinol formula my skin was able to tolerate after patiently enduring months of the .1% Differin formula. Since then there have been at least 5 well controlled human studies indicating that 1% retinol should be effective in the treatment of aging and photoaging. Makeup ideas, product reviews, and the latest celebrity trends—delivered straight to your inbox. The medication worked wonders on knocking out my constant hormonal acne, and for the first time since middle school, I feel comfortable leaving the house without makeup. The Best Drunk Elephant Products Actually Worth Your Money. However, when you buy something through our retail links, we may earn an affiliate commission. I’ve only been using it one to three times a week—depending on how my skin is feeling—for the past month, and I’ve definitely noticed a change in the appearance of my skin. I had no active breakouts, but my skin was riddled with scarring, particularly on my left cheek where I’d had an explosion of breakouts. Retinol at 1%. To revisit this article, visit My Profile, then View saved stories. Brand/Product: Drunk Elephant A-Passioni Retinol Cream. 5 / 8 The creamy texture goes on so nicely (it almost feels oily, in a good way), which I’m sure is thanks to all the hydrating ingredients in the formula. This picture illustrates the steps required for different types of retinoids to convert into the active form of retinoic acid. In order to answer this question, a study was performed comparing the efficacy and irritation of two concentrations of tretinoin cream, 0.1% and 0.025%. However, every study has noted that the vehicle used for retinol delivery is of crucial importance in eliciting its efficacy as retinol is extremely unstable and easily gets degraded to biologically inactive forms on exposure to light and air (Mukherjee et al. Continued use over time reveals a brighter, more even complexion and fewer signs of ageing. It's also a vegan, plant-based formula; Joshua Zeichner, M.D., director of cosmetic and clinical research department of dermatology at Mount Sinai Hospital, says these becoming increasingly popular because they’re less likely to irritate your skin. ‘We can’t really say why you 0.5% (note from NS: Danielle was using 0.05%, factual error by quoted author) wasn’t as strong, because we don’t know the particulars of the formula.’. A-Passioni contains 1% vegan retinol and peptides to restore bounce, resilience, and clarity in the skin, as well as even skin tone and texture. The treatments were used once daily for 48 weeks and there was no significant difference in the overall improvement in photoaging produced by the two concentrations but 0.1% tretinoin was significantly more irritating (reference: Griffiths CEM, Kang S, Ellis CN et al. Two concentrations of topical tretinoin (retinoic acid) cause similar improvement of photoaging but different degree of irritation. Throw it into the mix with, say, an AHA (like one of our favorites, Drunk Elephant T.L.C. ), Babcock et al (2015) have published a reasonably well-powered split face study in 65 subjects comparing retinol with tretinoin in various concentrations and found that the sustained release retinol complex used in the study was comparable to the tretinoin in producing the desired improvement on photodamaged skin of humans (J Drugs Dermatol. Disaster struck. Indeed, the fact that the manufacturers of the cosmetic product state that it takes longer to see a result from the use of retinol in itself is evidence that the two are far from equivalent. Most patients do get some level of irritation at the beginning of treatment with a topical retinoid but it is not an indicator of efficacy or potency of the product. However, very few studies have been performed on OTC retinol products. Even OTC Retinol Can Cause Irritation. The texture and feeling is very soft and silky and it immediately makes the skin feel soft and smooth and hydrated. Because some of the ingredients could be comedogenic, I think it's best suited to non-acne-prone skin. Even easing myself in (derms recommend using it once a week and slowly building up to everyday use), my skin wasn’t having it. Drunk Elephant Retinol Cream is a really great retinol cream that actually works to smooth out the fine lines and wrinkles on the skin. Drunk Elephant A-Passioni Retinol Cream – 1% vegan retinol is the key ingredient in this anti-aging night cream, which is designed to help minimize the look of fine lines, wrinkles and discoloration. I've started using the Drunk Elephant T.L.C Sukari Babyfacial once a week, TLC Farmboos Glycolic Night serum every other night and Vitamin C serum every night for two weeks now, I am having horrible breakouts! Clin Inter Aging 2006:1(4) 327-348.) This Drunk Elephant retinol has officially earned a permanent spot in my rotation. Drunk Elephant Retinol Cream – A-Passioni Before that, though, the only time my skin had ever been remotely as good as it is now was when my derm prescribed me a topical retinol in hopes of wiping out my acne without resorting to the medication. The statement that silicone slows or prevents absorption of actives like retinol is incorrect. This is potentially how using pre-cursor retinoids like retinaldehyde can prevent this ‘overload’ and thus reduce the irritation. Studies show that doing this does not reduce the efficacy of the tretinoin, even in acne patients, but it does minimise the irritation. I mix this in … She had quick results that cleared up her acne and boosted her confidence, she explained in her recent Instagram. The bottom line is that, as yet, there is not sufficient evidence to state categorically that 1% retinol is equivalent to tretinoin. I quit. To revisit this article, select My⁠ ⁠Account, then View saved stories. The word ‘retinoid’ is an umbrella term for any product that has an active form of vitamin A in it; it refers to a class of chemical compounds that either contain vitamin A or are chemically related to it. It is formed from the breakdown of beta-carotene. Retinol has to undergo oxidisation into the active molecule retinoic acid and this is the rate-limiting step in the generation of active retinoic acid in the cell from any type of retinoid pre-cursor. Drunk ElephantA-Passioni Retinol Cream ($74) sounds very, very exciting! No one really knows what the mechanism is for retinoid dermatitis. Drunk Elephant A-Passioni Retinol Cream ($74) contains 1% retinol, which is a lot, but there are also peptides and vitamin F to counteract retinol’s drying and potentially irritating effects. B-Hydra Intensive Hydration Serum. Retinoic acid binds to Retinoic acid Receptors (RAR) and Retinoic acid X Receptors (RXR). Everything in the Drunk Elephant line can be mixed, which means you can combine your serum, moisturizer, and SPF into a single super shot. Metabolism of topical retinaldehyde. Oh, and not only that, I’ve had no zero irritation, redness, or dryness. Morning or night, apply a pea-size amount or less to clean, dry face, avoiding the eye area. Not to brag, but my skin is the best it’s ever been in my life. Consider this a glass of water for your thirsty skin. Retinol has been used in OTC cosmetic products since 1984. The vehicle has to be inert while also allowing the medication to impart its effect on the skin. (reference: Didierjean L, Carraux P, Grand D, et al. All products featured on Glamour are independently selected by our editors. That’s why tretinoin is the gold standard retinoid for a myriad of both cosmetic and medical dermatological conditions. Topical retinaldehyde increases skin content of retinoic acid and exerts biologic activity in mouse skin. In 1995, Kang et al show that application of retinol onto normal human skin induced epidermal thickening via the same mechanism as retinoic acid while also observing that retinol showed only minimal signs of erythema and irritation unlike tretinoin. Can the manufacturer please provide the trial data supporting the statement that the retinol in their product is ‘100% bioavailable to skin’? The research is absolutely NOT longstanding or confirmatory. Retinol treats fine lines and wrinkles, sun damage and pigmentation. However, the debate is still ongoing about whether or not these ‘downstream’ retinoids are as effective as the gold standard retinoic acid (tretinoin). Ideal for all those who're already acquainted with the wonders of retinol (this can trigger irritation and peeling if your skin is sensitive, or if you're new to the retinol realm), Drunk Elephant’s game-changing A-Passioni Retinol Cream is the perfect addition to your evening-time routine. And if it’s too harsh for you at first, the brand says you can mix small amount with other products (like a hydrating moisturizer) to help temper the effects. We do not fully understand how or why retinoid dermatitis occurs (see below for a more thorough explanation of this) but we do know that irritation is not a requirement for a topical retinoid to be efficacious; in other words, irritation is not a reflection of the ‘strength’ or ‘potency’ of the retinoid. The tretinoin used in the prescription Dermatica product is a pharmaceutical grade tretinoin that comes as tretinoin powder and is added in the compounding lab to a vehicle for application to the skin. Drunk Elephant describes A-Passioni Retinol Cream as "Retinol reimagined. One study suggests that it might be due, at least partially, to an ‘overload’ of the retinoic acid-dependent pathway with non-physiologic amounts of exogenous retinoic acid in the skin. ‘1% retinol is equivalent to prescription tretinoin….Also, to be clear, research has long confirmed that 1% retinol is absolutely equivalent to prescription retinoids (i.e. (You can read more on “retinol buffering” here.). Needless to say, after so many "coincidence" of acne and breakouts after using this cleanser, Drunk Elephant truly got some problems with this cleanser and they should keep doing their R&D to … So why does the irritation occur and what can you do about it? The new Drunk Elephant retinol, A-Passioni 1.0% Retinol Cream, helps smooth and brighten skin, and even works for sensitive complexions. And, btw, she was probably reacting to the chlorhexidine in the product, not the retinol. Use of this site constitutes acceptance of our User Agreement (updated 1/1/20) and Privacy Policy and Cookie Statement (updated 1/1/20) and Your California Privacy Rights. Paddock dove into more research and decided to give Drunk Elephant a try after reading reviews. Retinol doesn’t break out, but this silicone-heavy cream by SkinCeuticals definitely does. All rights reserved. There are 3 issues the manufacturer raised and I have commented on each one: they relate to silicone in skincare and its effect on the efficacy of actives, why their retinol is supposedly ‘stronger’ than tretinoin, and the concept that a retinol is ‘equivalent’ to tretinoin. This morning I received a DM from @daniellelouisehay regarding a retinol product she had used from Drunk Elephant that she had quite a strong reaction to. Retinols are the gold standard for treating both wrinkles and acne, since they help accelerate skin regeneration and stimulate collagen. Please see some of our patient before and afters on Instagram or contact us for more information.
2020 drunk elephant retinol breakout